Never remove more than one third of the length of the grass on any single occasion.
Each run up the lawn should overlap the previous ones.
If you want ‘straight lines’ on a big lawn or grass without a straight edge, start by cutting a straight line in the middle of the lawn. Now cut on both sides of the line.
If you have lawn mower cutting rollers, each month you should change direction.
For mowers with four wheels, you have to overlap each time and ensure the wheels are not hitting the same spots repeatedly. Grass cutting that is repeated on the same line will produce ruts and tramlines!
Remember that it is wet or long grass that slows your pace and not the speed of the blades.
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If you find you are ‘scalping’ the grass in some places (high spots) raise the height of cut.
Cut slopes and shady areas of the lawn slightly higher than the rest of the grass.
If the grass has a ‘silvery shine’ or ‘rough’ look after mowing, it could be that the cutting blades require sharpening.
When using a cylinder lawn mower with a stuttering blade that’s creating a striped or rippled effect, then it might be caused by:
blunt mower or an under-powered mower or
grass is too long or too wet – slowing down the cutting speed and meaning the grass must be cut more frequently.
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